So, you are prepared the floor where you want to install your floor tiles and want everything to be done in no time? It is possible. At this juncture, I want to believe that you have gotten your floor tiles ready and have figured out your preferred layout. Here is the next question for you: What tools do you want to use to complete the floor tiles installation successfully?
Before you zip off to the store to spend lots of money, take a moment to think about the required tool you will need to install your floor tiles. If you want to tile like a pro, then check out our rundown of the ten essential tools and materials for tiling.
1. Wet Tile Saw
When using the right tools for installing the best floor tiles, think about your budget and get the best. If you can spring to a wet tile saw, it will be a deal worth making. Sure, it’s a one-trick pony when you want to use it and will sit in the garage crowding dust after the tiling gets done, but as a help to a better job, nothing breaks a wet tile saw.
It makes easy work of ceramic tiles, porcelain, and stone floor tiles and decreases breakages, saving you money.
You will need a snap tile cutter if the budget does not stretch to a wet tile saw. For a fraction of the price of some wet tile saws, a snap tile cutter does the same project but manually. It comprises a long frame with a handle attached to a tile cutting blade that runs down the center and a V-shaped pressure pad. You score the blade along the cutting line and apply gentle pressure to the floor tiles ensuring that it snaps with clean edges.
The downside is that it takes practice to get it with tilers prefer using them after they have mastered the methods. This means that learning the implement could cost you damaged tiles before you can complete your tiling task.
2. Mortar Mixer
Sure, you could buy mixed tile adhesive and grout, but that would be costly, especially if installing floor tiles in a large area like a bathroom floor. It is better to purchase the mortar and grout in powder form and then mix it yourself.
For that, you will need a mortar mixer. These are long-stemmed implements that have what can be described as a cake mixer. They attach to an engine that whisks the mortar into a thick paste to apply it to the floor tiles. You can also get attachments that fit into your power drill, and these would be less expensive than a dedicated mortar mixer. However, they perform the same task.
3. Plastic Bucket
What could you do without a good bucket? You will need to buy the largest one and try not to make the error of using a dirty bucket. Even if you choose to use premixed tile mortar, you will still need the bucket for sponging clean the grout from the floor tiles.
4. Grout Sponge
It is not bad if you think that any old sponge will work. Grout sponges, however, are made for the job and are always dense, absorbent sponges that remove excess grout from the surface of the floor tiles with ease. Make sure that the sponge is clean, though, before you begin.
Remember that you will need to remove ALL the excess grout, as any excess remaining will alter the final finish by dulling and tarnishing the tile.
5. Pointed Trowel or Tile Trowel
Some professionals use a pointed trowel to spread mortar or tile by eye and experience alone evenly. For the novice, it is best to stick with a tile trowel that consists of an edge with large squares cut into it to ensure the mortar spreads uniformly across the back of the floor surface. That will help to even the bond for a more secure grip. If you are looking for floor tiles for your home or office, we recommend visiting https://tileandbathco.com.au they have a wide variety of floor tiles.
6. Grout Float
A grout float is a flat trowel, with the base made from quality rubber, and is used to spread the grout into the gaps between the floor tiles. The rubber allows an even spread.
As you spread, you will no doubt make a mistake, but don’t worry; it’s perfectly normal; after all, that’s what your grout sponge is for. Hold the grout at an angle and start working the grout into the gaps, ensuring no air pockets or missed spots. If you cannot cover the spaces with grout completely, it is possible that water gets in and cause moisture issues, eventually resulting in the floor tiles peeling off the floor.
7. Tile Nibbler
As the name implies, this neat little tool is employed to nibble the floor tiles to create edges that the tile cutter can’t handle. It is handy for cutting floor tiles for curved edges and irregular lines, so if you have a tiling job that looks like it will be a challenge, a tile nibbler could be the tool you need.
8. Chalk Line or Laser Level
Tiling is mostly about straight lines, so it is essential to mark them out to ensure that the first line of tiles is straight. No matter how little it might be, …
Since then, I’ve completed many courses in floor tiles setting and gained valuable experience working directly with a number of expert tile setters. I’ve gained a great deal from each experience, and I’d want to share what I’ve learned with you in order for your next tile work to turn out nicely.
1. A Level and Sturdy Underlayment:
The foundation of your home, much like the structure of your house, is quite significant. Is your floor flexing, bouncing, or squeaking as you walk over it? If this is the case, you must address these concerns immediately. Make use of a level and place it in various distinct locations (and directions on your subfloor). Is there a slope, low regions, or a combination of these? If your subfloor has dips or valleys in it, you will be unable to install a professional tile work that will survive? Your floor tiles will break if it is not robust and bends, resulting in broken grout or worse, cracked tiles.
According to the TCNA (Tile Council of North America), there should be no more than a 1/4 inch discrepancy in 10 feet and no more than a 1/16 inch difference in 12 inches. If your subfloor isn’t level, you may learn how to level your floor by reading the rest of this guide.
If you have a wood subfloor, be sure that your wood substrates are spaced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (usually a 1/8-inch gap between plywood sheets). Before tiling, backer board or uncoupling membranes should be installed on the flooring to prevent the floor tiles from sticking together.
Never lay tile directly on top of freshly laid concrete. Continue reading to find out why I employ uncoupling membranes and how to avoid your floor tiles project being destroyed by expanding or contracting concrete during the installation process.
2. Take into consideration the use of an uncoupling membrane.
The application of the orange Schluter Ditra waterproof membrane before tiling was covered in another prior article. As an added benefit, the Schluter Ditra material functions as an uncoupling barrier, which helps to avoid fractures in your floor tiles and/or grout.
It is impossible for me to tile a room without using an uncoupling membrane after attending the Schluter training. Furthermore, their membranes are waterproof, which is a nice plus. There is no longer any need to be concerned about water leaking into your floorboards and causing mold to grow.
3. Make Use of a Quality Tile Cutter
The use of quality equipment will ensure that your floor tiles operation runs smoothly and that your tile cuts do not seem to be a jagged jumble of pieces. If you can’t afford to purchase high-quality tools, consider renting them or asking a fellow DIYer if you can borrow their equipment. (Be sure to clean their tools thoroughly before returning them.) There is nothing that irritates me more than unclean tools.) learn more about floor tile tools at http://wallandfloortilestore.com/top-10-essential-tools-to-install-your-floor-tiles/
4. Prepare Your Tile Layout Ahead of Time
If you’ve heard it said that investing time in preparation will save you time in the long run, nothing could be more accurate than when it comes to tiling your floor. I always start by laying out my floor tiles before beginning any tile project. I dry spread them out to have a better idea of what I’m up against. Before I begin, I lay out a run of floor tiles down the length of the room, positioning the tiles such that I don’t have to cut a little sliver of a tile at either end of the line. In order to prevent repeating the issue, I arrange a run throughout the width of the space, making alterations as needed.
If I have printed tiles, I sort them into heaps according to the design of the print on each tile. Then, when I go back to pick tiles later, I grab them from various stacks of tiles. I also take a step back to ensure that two of the identical tiles are not next to one another (like in the example below thanks to that so-called professional I hired).
Nothing screams “inexperienced tiler” quite like two printed floor tiles being put next to each other on the same wall. And in the same direction as well!
5. Remove an Expansion (or Movement) Joint from the equation.
Despite what you may believe (particularly if you are a perfectionist), you do not want to cut and place your tiles so that they are flush against the wall (or other objects in your room like columns, pipes, or walls.) The perimeter of your room or the area surrounding immovable items must be at least 1/4 inch thick. If you do not follow this guideline, you may find that your tile floor is popping up or tenting. Additionally, you must build a movement joint in every interior space every 25 feet in both directions in order to accommodate movement. If, on the other hand, this space is subjected to direct sunshine or heat, an expansion joint will be required every 12 feet in both directions.
6. Make use of the recommended trowel size.
Tiles are available in a range of forms and sizes, necessitating the use of a number of trowels. Make careful to examine the tile’s specs to determine the appropriate trowel size for the job. Alternatively, you might ask a salesperson from …